Cuenca – a vegetarian paradise

Originally written for CoolWorks.com

After our arrival to Cuenca (Ecuador) we were eager to eat outside. What we were searching was the regular rice, beans, and salad dish, which we enjoyed in so many other latin places. When we figured out a place where such kind of lunch is available for US $1, we were absolutely content.

fresh, self-made soy milk from the Taiwanese owners

That changed as soon as Roy, a friend we met over CouchSurfing, told us about a unimaginable great vegetarian place called “El Paraiso”. It is a kind of vegetarian restaurant chain, which has several places here in Cuenca. We did not wait long before trying it out, and we were astonished when bing served a huge lunch portion for only US $1.25. We fast forgot about our one dollar rice-bean-salad restaurant. We tought us in heaven, until we came there about the third or fourth time. As I cannot eat milk products, I always had to order a dry meal, which means without sauce. I did not feel great about the meals anymore, and prefered to create my own dishes at home.

During the following weeks we fasted, which was not the most easy, because we found especially in this three weeks of eating nothing a handful other promising veggie places. Once we were back to normal food, we decided to try them all out.

El paraiso we still visited from time to time, but we meanwhile prefered a lot El Natural and Good Afinity.

“El Natural” is a very cosy place, which reminds rather a home than a restaurant. The Owner as well as the cooks are always ready for a chat, and love to hear what made you appearing in their restaurant. They offer breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but until now we have only made it to several lunches over there. We love the course, which consists of a nice soup with usually choclos (kind of corn) or popcorn, a herbal sweet drink, a main meal consisting of rice, salad, vegetables, beans, soymeat, potatoe stews etc., and a dessert, which is either a pudding or fresh fruit. All that you get for only US $1.50. The meal leaves us always satisfied, just sometimes we wish to get less rice, but more vegetable stew on our plate.

the menu ;)

“Good Afinity” we discovered while passing it by bus a bit out of the centre. It looked promising, and thus once after swimming we went for a try. Although it is slightly more expensive, the menu del dia costs US $2, it is a pure pleasure. The course starts with a delicious soy milk or a fresh juice, is followed by a soup based on potatoes, soy meat, beans, or vegetables (or in combination), and finished by the main meal consisting of rice, potatoe stew, fried, boiled or stewed vegetables, beans, fresh salad, soy meat in various forms, smoked gluten, and/or pasta salad. Usually, we have a hard time to finish this meal, thus take the rest of it home. As a dessert for hours after the meal (because really nothing fits anymore), we often take a Pastel de Luna home. This is a kind of sweet made of puff pastry with coconut or bean filling. We have never thought it possible that beans can be sweet, but in Pastel de Luna they are, and it is making you right away addicted.

Good Affinity - that is the place to be; slightly more expensive, but always a culinary experience

Besides, Good Afinity sells self-made soy meat, soy sausages, gluten, tofu, and soy milk. The first time we decided to buy tofu we weren’t sure if we should take two portions, because for $1.50 we expected to get a small piece. When we were finally given the bag with tofu, we were grateful having ordered only one, because it contained two tofu bars, bigger than any I have ever seen in Europe. We finally lived on that pieces of tofu for two weeks, making ourselves great creamy tofu cheese, as well as tofu feta. Absolutely overwhelming delicious, we can tell!

Not enough of those great places, it seems that every restaurant in town has at least one vegetarian dish on its menu. Even Sakura Sushi, needless to say it’s a sushi restaurant, offers a vegetarian course containing of miso soup with tofu, vegetarian rolls, and a sweet banana dessert. What do you wish more for as a vegetarian?

El Natural - one of our favorite veggie restaurants

Since living here, we got the impression that Ecuador is a perfect place for vegetarians. Once I even read that one of the former presidents of Ecuador tried to promote the vegetarian lifestyle in his country. If we look at Cuenca, he did fairly well, and we imagined it to be a standard in Ecuador. Since we received a couple of travelers having been to several places in Ecuador before they arrived to Cuenca, we learned to be wrong. It seems Cuenca is the only place in Ecuador, which you can truly call a vegetarian paradise. And we are grateful without that knowledge having choosen Cuenca for our long-term stay in Ecuador.

Cuenca clearly spoilt us. Still we believe in succeeding to find here and there another vegetarian restaurant on our trip through Ecuador, which finally starts during Christmas 2007.