{"id":393,"date":"2008-05-04T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2008-05-03T22:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/netiketas-marsrutas-cileje-atgal-i-peru\/"},"modified":"2009-05-23T23:30:20","modified_gmt":"2009-05-23T21:30:20","slug":"netiketas-marsrutas-cileje-atgal-i-peru","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/netiketas-marsrutas-cileje-atgal-i-peru\/","title":{"rendered":"Netik\u0117tas mar\u0161rutas \u010cil\u0117je &#8211; atgal \u012f Peru (baland\u017eio 18-22)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Jau jums ra\u0161\u0117m, kad <a href=\"http:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/mes-cileje\/\">buvom \u012f\u017eeng\u0119 \u012f \u010cil\u0117s \u017eemes<\/a>, ta\u010diau prie\u0161 de\u0161imt dien\u0173 trumpam sugr\u012f\u017eom \u012f Peru. O buvo taip&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>Kai sve\u010diavomes Ikik\u0117je (Iquique, \u010cil\u0117), Katjai bronchito simptomai ka\u017ekod\u0117l nenor\u0117jo dingti. Buvo neai\u0161ku ar tai alergija, ar tai sinusito protr\u016bkis, ar kitas nemalonumas. Negana to, vien\u0105 dien\u0105 man besir\u0105\u017eant, raumuo nugaroje, o gal nervas, \u0161oktel\u0117jo ir atgal \u012f savo viet\u0105 nebegr\u012f\u017eo. Nuo tada vienoje nugaros zonoje jau\u010diau lyg spaudim\u0105. Po keli\u0173 dien\u0173 tas spaudimams kiek su\u0161veln\u0117jo, bet u\u017etat koj\u0173 ir rank\u0173 s\u0105nariai pasidar\u0117 jautr\u016bs. Ne tai kad skaud\u0117jo, bet jaut\u0117si lyg b\u016bt\u0173 pavarg\u0119, nors nieko baisiai nedirbau (esu bedarbis).<\/p>\n<p>Visk\u0105 susumav\u0119, i\u0161 Iquiques nusprend\u0117m nul\u0117kti \u012f kalnus &#8211; paman\u0117m, gal Katjai pager\u0117s su plau\u010diais ir nosim, o man atsistatys kaip nors tas pa\u0161lij\u0119s nervas nugaroj. Keliose bro\u0161i\u016brose mat\u0117m vaizding\u0105 fotografij\u0105 is Colchan\u0117s &#8211; miestelio prie pat sienos su Bolivija, tad ilgai negalvojom ir pasirinkom b\u016btent j\u012f.<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"width: 160px;\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/way_to_colchane\/IMG_0597.JPG\" title=\"desert and a man\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/way_to_colchane\/cache\/IMG_0597.JPG-nggid043154-ngg0dyn-150x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"desert and a man\" title=\"desert and a man\" \/><\/a>\t\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\">desert and a man<\/p><\/div>\n\n<p>Kad \u012fsivaizduotum\u0117t kaip atrodo \u017eem\u0117lapis, trumpai paai\u0161kinsiu. Ikik\u0117 bazuojasi prie j\u016bros. Apie 50 km \u012f rytus i\u0161ilgai \u010cil\u0117s eina panamerikana greitkelis. Nuo \u0161ios sankry\u017eos &#8211; Peru siena u\u017e 280 km, o sostin\u0117 Santiago \u012f pietus u\u017e koki\u0173 1700 km. Na o kelias \u012f Col\u010dan\u0119 (ir Bolivij\u0105) prasideda panamerikana pava\u017eiavus apie 30 km \u012f \u0161iaur\u0119. Ten yra Huara kaimelis, kuriame kelias link sienos \u0161akojasi Bolivijos link.<\/p>\n<p>Taigi, pirmus 50 km i\u0161 Ikik\u0117s autostopu \u012fveik\u0117m gan lengvai. Dvi ma\u0161inos per miest\u0105, sunkve\u017eimiukas iki panamerikanos. Atsid\u016br\u0117m dykumos kry\u017ekel\u0117j. \u010cia, beje, yra ir turist\u0173 lankomas miestas-vaiduoklis <a target=\"_blank\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Humberstone_and_Santa_Laura_Saltpeter_Works\">Humberstone<\/a>. Jame lankem\u0117s ir apie j\u012f papasakosim kada v\u0117liau. Toliau tranzuoti buvo kiek sunkiau. Lauk\u0117m daugiau nei valand\u0105. \u0160e\u0161\u0117lio nerasta, saul\u0117 spigina. \u017diauru. Per t\u0105 laik\u0105 u\u017e m\u016bs\u0173 tranzuoti at\u0117jo kaimo mergina, o v\u0117liau ir tu\u0161\u010di\u0105 vandens butel\u012f \u012f rank\u0105 bar\u0161kinantis vyrukas su plejeriu ausyse. Tiesa, dar prie\u0161 pasirodant \u0161itiems tipa\u017eams, i\u0161 prie\u0161ingos juostos u\u017e m\u016bs\u0173 netik\u0117tai sustojo gerai apsir\u016bpin\u0119s pagyven\u0119s motociklininkas. <\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"width: 160px;\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/way_to_colchane\/IMG_0599.JPG\" title=\"a bike tourist and a girl\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/way_to_colchane\/cache\/IMG_0599.JPG-nggid043156-ngg0dyn-150x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"a bike tourist and a girl\" title=\"a bike tourist and a girl\" \/><\/a>\t\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\">a bike tourist and a girl<\/p><\/div>\n\n<p>Prad\u017eioj pamaniau tai policininkas, nes be\u017ei\u016brint man \u012f akis spigino saul\u0117. Prastos reg\u0117jimo s\u0105lygos. Nu\u0117jau \u012f motociklo gal\u0105 pasi\u017ei\u016br\u0117ti kokius numerius turi.<br \/>&#8211; Tai j\u016bs i\u0161 Amerikos? &#8211; paklausiau.<br \/>&#8211; Yes. Klausyk, gal gali pasi\u017ei\u016br\u0117ti \u012f mano \u017eem\u0117lap\u012f &#8211; kurioje vietoje dabar randam\u0117s?<br \/>Pir\u0161tu bakstel\u0117jau netoli Ikik\u0117s.<br \/>&#8211; Ar \u0161itas kelias de\u0161in\u0117je veda \u012f Ikik\u0119? &#8211; paklaus\u0117 (o tai kam jam tas \u017eem\u0117lapis?).<br \/>&#8211; Aha.<br \/>&#8211; I\u0161 kur esat?<br \/>&#8211; I\u0161 Lietuvos ir Vokietijos.<br \/>&#8211; I\u0161 Lietuvoooooooos!!! &#8211; vyrukas ta proga net nusi\u0117m\u0117 pir\u0161tines kad gal\u0117t\u0173 man be trukd\u017ei\u0173 paspausti rank\u0105. &#8211; A\u0161 \u010cikagoje turiu ger\u0105 draug\u0105 kuris yra lietuvis! B\u016btinai jam para\u0161ysiu apie jus!<\/p>\n<p>Papasakojom, kad esam kelyje daugiau nei du metus, o tuo tarpu jis pasigyr\u0117, jog su draugais atsiplukd\u0117 motociklus \u012f Santiago ir 3 savaites keliavo per \u010cil\u0119, Argentin\u0105, Bolivij\u0105 ir Peru.<\/p>\n<p>I\u0161sitraukiau fotik\u0105 ir \u012fam\u017einau \u0161\u012f keliautoj\u0105 \u012f m\u016bs\u0173 atminties kortel\u0119. <br \/>&#8211; O! A\u0161 irgi turiu jus b\u016btinai nufotkint! Nusi\u016bsiu savo draugui lietuviui! &#8211; tai betardamas amerikonas i\u0161sitrauk\u0117 skaitmenin\u0119 muilin\u0119 ir \u012fam\u017eino mus \u012f savo kortel\u0119.<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"width: 160px;\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/way_to_colchane\/IMG_0601.JPG\" title=\"who is waiting patiently beside the road\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/way_to_colchane\/cache\/IMG_0601.JPG-nggid043157-ngg0dyn-150x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"who is waiting patiently beside the road\" title=\"who is waiting patiently beside the road\" \/><\/a>\t\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\">who is waiting patiently beside the road<\/p><\/div>\n\n<p>Tai buvo vienintel\u0117 pramoga \u0161ioje sankry\u017eoje. V\u0117liau prie\u0161 mus pakely atsirado dar du vyrukai su ta\u0161\u0117mis. Vienas j\u0173 nusi\u0161lapino ant dykumos. Jie buvo labiau pana\u0161\u016bs \u012f autobuso laukian\u010dius nei \u012f autostopininkus. Tiesa, mes stabd\u0117m bet kok\u012f transport\u0105, tame tarpe ir tarpmiestinius autobusus, ta\u010diau vairuotojai suprat\u0119 kad i\u0161 m\u016bs\u0173 neu\u017edirbs &#8211; nestojo. Kiek palengv\u0117jo kai min\u0117tiems vyrukams sustojo autobusas \u012f Arik\u0105 (prie pat Peru sienos). Kol keleiviai rop\u0161t\u0117si \u012f vid\u0173, Katja u\u017eklaus\u0117 vieno i\u0161 vairuotoj\u0173, ar gal\u0117t\u0173 mus nemokamai pamet\u0117ti iki Huara &#8211; kaimelio kuriame \u0161akojasi kelias link Bolivijos. Vairuotojai neprie\u0161taravo. Nors lauke buvo gan\u0117tinai kar\u0161ta, pra\u0161matniame autobuse su oro kondicionieriumi reik\u0117jo u\u017esimesti turimus megztukus-d\u017eamperius.<\/p>\n<p>Huara kaimelyje i\u0161lipom apie 2 valand\u0105 dienos. Iki Colchan\u0117s beliko 300 km. Kelion\u0117 per kalnus &#8211; 5-6 valandos. Deja deja, i\u0161 \u0161io mirties ta\u0161ko i\u0161jud\u0117ti taip ir nepavyko. Dauguma ma\u0161in\u0173 &#8211; <\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"width: 210px;\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/way_to_colchane\/IMG_0605.JPG\" title=\"excuse me, sir...\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/way_to_colchane\/cache\/IMG_0605.JPG-nggid043158-ngg0dyn-200x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"excuse me, sir...\" title=\"excuse me, sir...\" \/><\/a>\t\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\">excuse me, sir...<\/p><\/div>\n\n<p>Bolivijos sunkve\u017eimiai. Esam gird\u0117j\u0119, kad Bolivija &#8211;&nbsp; autostopinink\u0173 pragaras, tad nesisteb\u0117jom ir kai fur\u0173 vairuotojai (i\u0161lip\u0119 nusipirkti u\u017ekandos kioskeliuose) vis prisigalvodavo prie\u017eas\u010di\u0173, kod\u0117l m\u016bs\u0173 neggali pave\u017eti. Keletas j\u0173 sak\u0117, jog leidimo turim pra\u0161yti sankry\u017eoje esan\u010diame policijos poste (\u010dia jie vadinami Carabineros). D\u0117l visa ko \u0161i\u0105 teorij\u0105 patikrinom, nes visgi \u010cil\u0117je esam naujokai. Pareig\u016bnas tik nusijuok\u0117 &#8211; imti pakeleiv\u012fus ar neimti &#8211; sprend\u017eia vairuotojas. Deja, bolivie\u010diai turi fantazijos ir atrasdavo kit\u0173 prie\u017eas\u010di\u0173. Kartais staiga su\u017einodavom, kad kabinoje kartu va\u017eiuoja vos ne visa \u0161eima ir vietos n\u0117ra, arba vairuotojas sugalvodavo, kad dabar lauks savo kolegos kuris keliaus kartu, nors atvykstant antro keleivio niekad nematydavom. \u017dinoma, jie mums blogo nelink\u0117jo, o tik ai\u0161kino, kad visai netrukus pasirodys autobusai, kurie mus nuve\u0161 ten kur norim.<\/p>\n<p>Situacija buvo totaliai bevilti\u0161ka. Net pro \u0161al\u012f va\u017eiuojantys lengv\u0173j\u0173 automobili\u0173 vairuotojai mus pamat\u0119 n\u0117 nemirktel\u0117davo. Sutemo gerokai prie\u0161 7 vakaro. Kadangi esam \u010cil\u0117j, kurioje \u017emogus jautiesi ka\u017ekaip saugiau (plius policija kitoj gatv\u0117s pus\u0117j), nusprend\u0117m tranzuoti iki <\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"width: 160px;\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/way_to_colchane\/IMG_0612.JPG\" title=\"9 hours later we are still waiting for a ride\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/way_to_colchane\/cache\/IMG_0612.JPG-nggid043159-ngg0dyn-150x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"9 hours later we are still waiting for a ride\" title=\"9 hours later we are still waiting for a ride\" \/><\/a>\t\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\">9 hours later we are still waiting for a ride<\/p><\/div>\n\n<p>v\u0117lumos. Taip prastov\u0117jom iki 11 vakaro. Beje, mokamo transporto ta kryptimi yra. Per pus\u0119 dienos pro mus prava\u017eiavo bent 10 autobus\u0173. Dauguma j\u0173 trauk\u0117 \u012f Bolivijoje esant\u012f miest\u0105 Oruro. Pra\u0161\u0117m, kad iki i\u0161svajotosios Colchan\u0117s pave\u017et\u0173 nemokamai (\u0161iaip bilietas &#8211; 3000 pes\u0173, 15 lit\u0173), bet gird\u0117jom tik &#8222;kas \u010dia dabar per nemokamai&#8230; Nemokamai \u0161iais laikais nieko n\u0117ra&#8230;&#8221; &#8211; tikino mums vairuotojai.<\/p>\n<p>T\u0105 nakt\u012f palapin\u0119 pasistat\u0117me apgriuvusiame, o gal nebaigtame statyti name. Tai buvo trys sienos su pusiau dengtu stogu. Na o ketvirtaj\u0105 sien\u0105, kurios nebuvo, atstojo vaizdas \u012f Bolivijos keli\u0105 ir vis re\u010diau prava\u017eiuojant\u012f transport\u0105.<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"width: 160px;\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/way_to_colchane\/IMG_0622.JPG\" title=\"in Huara you read newspapers in the middle of the road\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/way_to_colchane\/cache\/IMG_0622.JPG-nggid043161-ngg0dyn-150x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"in Huara you read newspapers in the middle of the road\" title=\"in Huara you read newspapers in the middle of the road\" \/><\/a>\t\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\">in Huara you read newspapers in the middle of the road<\/p><\/div>\n\n<p>Nors nakt\u012f \u010dia \u017eiauriai \u0161alta, miegojom labai sald\u017eiai. Ryte u\u017ekandom vakaryk\u0161t\u0117s duonos ir band\u0117m sustabdyti k\u0105 nors \u012fdomaus. Po valandos m\u016bs\u0173 kantryb\u0117 baig\u0117si. Galvojom k\u0105 daryti. Kaip ir nebuvom visi\u0161kai pasveik\u0119, o pigioji Peru su pigesniais daktarais juk visai netoli. Be to man dar ir vien\u0105 plomb\u0105 reik\u0117t\u0173 \u012f dant\u012f \u012fstatyti (prie\u0161 2 savait\u0117s praval\u0117 netoli \u0161akn\u0173 karies\u0105 ir u\u017ed\u0117jo laikin\u0105 mink\u0161t\u0105 balt\u0105 plombik\u0119). Viskas, nusprend\u0117m &#8211; va\u017eiuojam \u012f Arik\u0105. Tai \u0161iauriausias \u010cil\u0117s miestas, nuo kurio iki Peru sienos belieka vos 20 km. M\u0105st\u0117m pab\u016bti kelias dienas Arikoje, dar kart\u0105 \u012fvertinti savijaut\u0105 ir po keli\u0173 dien\u0173 priimti naujus sprendimus. <\/p>\n<p>Per\u0117jom \u012f kit\u0105 sankry\u017eos pus\u0119, i\u0161k\u0117l\u0117m rank\u0105, ir bene po 10 minu\u010di\u0173 mums sustojo didel\u0117 fura su kuria nusigavom iki pat Arikos. Tiesa, pusiaukel\u0117je m\u016bs\u0173 vairuotojas policijos poste gavo baudos bal\u0105 u\u017e tai, jog ve\u017e\u0117 du papildomus keleivius. D\u017eiaug\u0117m\u0117s, kad d\u0117l to jis m\u016bs\u0173 negrau\u017e\u0117 ir kartu va\u017eiavom toliau. Pabuv\u0119 por\u0105 savai\u010di\u0173 \u010cil\u0117je jau sp\u0117jom suprasti, jog policija \u010dia yra labai grie\u017eta ir prakti\u0161kai nepaperkama.<\/p>\n<p>Arikoje susid\u016br\u0117m su dar vienu i\u0161\u0161\u016bkiu &#8211; reik\u0117jo susirasti nakvyn\u0119. Kai kurie beskaitantys gal sakys kaip \u010dia mes visk\u0105 norim nemokamai gauti, ta\u010diau<br \/>\n tai yra m\u016bs\u0173 keliavimo b\u016bdas &#8211; apeliuojam \u012f \u017emogi\u0161kum\u0105 o ne komercij\u0105, o be to su dabartine finansine situacija (teturim apie 2500 Lt santaup\u0173) mok\u0117ti u\u017e nakvyn\u0119 ar transport\u0105 b\u016bt\u0173 didel\u0117 prabanga.<\/p>\n<p>Nakvyn\u0117s ie\u0161kojom per svetingumo klubus <a target=\"_blank\" href=\"http:\/\/www.hospitalityclub.com\/\">HospitalityClub<\/a> ir <a target=\"_blank\" href=\"http:\/\/www.couchsurfing.com\/\">CouchSurfing<\/a>. I\u0161 tikr\u0173j\u0173 tai netur\u0117jom daug laiko, tad tiek kiek radom, nusira\u0161\u0117m kai kuri\u0173 nari\u0173 telefonus. Gerai, kad netoliese buvo didelis supermarketas &#8211; ir pavalgyt yra k\u0105 nusipirkti, ir tualetas \u0161varus. I\u0161 ten esan\u010di\u0173 telefon\u0173 \u0117m\u0117m skambinti surinktais numeriais. Daugelis atsiliepdavo ir prisipa\u017eindavo, jog jau turi sve\u010di\u0173 arba d\u0117l kit\u0173 prie\u017eas\u010di\u0173 pagelb\u0117ti negali. Taip t\u0119s\u0117si kol paskambinom Omarui. Vaikinukas u\u017esimin\u0117, jog kit\u0105 dien\u0105 i\u0161va\u017eiuoja ir nelabai gali kuom pad\u0117ti, ta\u010diau perklaus\u0117m &#8211; gal b\u016bt\u0173 galimyb\u0117 pernakvoti bent vien\u0105 nakt\u012f, o ryt\u0105 nakvyn\u0119 \u0161audysim toliau. <\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"width: 160px;\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/IMG_0639.JPG\" title=\"Omar and Carolina - our saviors in Arica concerning accomodation\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/cache\/IMG_0639.JPG-nggid043039-ngg0dyn-150x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"Omar and Carolina - our saviors in Arica concerning accomodation\" title=\"Omar and Carolina - our saviors in Arica concerning accomodation\" \/><\/a>\t\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\">Omar and Carolina - our saviors in Arica concerning accomodation<\/p><\/div>\n\n<p>Omaras &#8211; geras \u017emogus.<br \/>&#8211; Kur esat?<br \/>&#8211; &#8222;Lider&#8221; supermarkete.<br \/>&#8211; O geras! A\u0161 irgi ten pat.<br \/>&#8211; J\u0117ga, lauksim prie telefon\u0173.<br \/>Taip susipa\u017einom su Omaru ir jo drauge Karolina. Jie mus nusive\u017e\u0117 \u012f jos namus. Su mumis susipa\u017einus, Karolinos mama pasi\u016bl\u0117 \u012fsikurti 10 km nuo miesto, viename namuke, kuris pastatytas dykumos oaz\u0117je, ir jame \u0161eima kartais apsilanko papiknikauti. Pasi\u016blym\u0105 pri\u0117m\u0117m.<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"width: 160px;\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/IMG_0644.JPG\" title=\"bathing in river water\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/cache\/IMG_0644.JPG-nggid043042-ngg0dyn-150x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"bathing in river water\" title=\"bathing in river water\" \/><\/a>\t\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\">bathing in river water<\/p><\/div>\n\n<p>Kadangi namuke leido pagyventi ilg\u0117liau, u\u017esibuvom Arikoje kelias dienas. Kiek sud\u0117tinga buvo su vandeniu ir transportu. Iki miesto vis reik\u0117davo tranzuoti, o sugr\u012f\u017edavom su autobusu, kurio kaina palyginus didel\u0117 &#8211; 650 pes\u0173, 3,3 lito. Sumokam u\u017e du \u017emones ir jau 3 doleriai kaip \u012f bal\u0105. O tris doleriai \u0161iais laikais &#8211; tai m\u016bsu dienos biud\u017eeto ketvirtadalis. Su vandeniu tame namuke buvo labai prastai. Tur\u0117jom didel\u012f, kokiu 50 litr\u0173 bidon\u0105, ir kelis butelai\u010dius geriamo vandens. Kai va\u017eiuodavom \u012f miest\u0105, butelius i\u0161 naujo u\u017esipildydavom. Du\u0161o ai\u0161ku nebuvo, tad eidavom maudytis \u012f netoliese esant\u012f \u017eiauriai sekl\u0173 upeliuk\u0105. Ant \u0161alia esan\u010di\u0173 stulp\u0173 mus serg\u0117davo dideli juodi raudongalviai pauk\u0161\u010diai (gal \u017einot kaip jie vadinas?).<\/p>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/IMG_0653.JPG\" title=\"our hut in Arica\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/cache\/IMG_0653.JPG-nggid043047-ngg0dyn-100x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"our hut in Arica\" title=\"our hut in Arica\" \/><\/a>\t\n\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/IMG_0659.JPG\" title=\"stylish as we like it\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/cache\/IMG_0659.JPG-nggid043052-ngg0dyn-100x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"stylish as we like it\" title=\"stylish as we like it\" \/><\/a>\t\n\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/IMG_0642.JPG\" title=\"an oasis in the desert\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/cache\/IMG_0642.JPG-nggid043041-ngg0dyn-100x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"an oasis in the desert\" title=\"an oasis in the desert\" \/><\/a>\t\n\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/IMG_0660.JPG\" title=\"path to the river\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/cache\/IMG_0660.JPG-nggid043053-ngg0dyn-100x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"path to the river\" title=\"path to the river\" \/><\/a>\t\n\n<p><a target=\"_blank\" href=\"http:\/\/followtheroad.com\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/IMG_0653.JPG\"><br \/><\/a><\/p>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/IMG_0655.JPG\" title=\" \" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/cache\/IMG_0655.JPG-nggid043049-ngg0dyn-100x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"IMG_0655\" title=\"IMG_0655\" \/><\/a>\t\n\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/IMG_0656.JPG\" title=\" \" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/cache\/IMG_0656.JPG-nggid043050-ngg0dyn-100x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"IMG_0656\" title=\"IMG_0656\" \/><\/a>\t\n\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/IMG_0645.JPG\" title=\"looking out of the door\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/cache\/IMG_0645.JPG-nggid043043-ngg0dyn-100x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"looking out of the door\" title=\"looking out of the door\" \/><\/a>\t\n\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/IMG_0654.JPG\" title=\"hungry visitros\" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2008\/chile\/arica\/cache\/IMG_0654.JPG-nggid043048-ngg0dyn-100x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"hungry visitros\" title=\"hungry visitros\" \/><\/a>\t\n\n<p>Vien\u0105 nakt\u012f mane u\u017epuol\u0117 siaubingas nugaros skausmas. \u012etariau, jog tai vietos neradusio nervo pasekm\u0117s. Ne\u012fsivaizdavau pas kok\u012f daktar\u0105 su tokiom problemom reik\u0117t\u0173 eiti. Turb\u016bt prad\u0117t\u0173 siuntin\u0117ti i\u0161 vienos vietos \u012f kit\u0105, u\u017esipra\u0161yt\u0173 kr\u016bvos test\u0173 ir taip be galo. Racionaliausia atrod\u0117 &#8211; susirasti biomagnetizmo daktar\u0105. Internete radau vien\u0105 tuo u\u017esiman\u010di\u0105 moteri\u0161k\u0119. Pas j\u0105 u\u017esukom po piet\u0173 (paprastai tokie &#8222;daktarai&#8221; pacientus priima savo namuose). Seansas \u010dia &#8211; 10000 pes\u0173 (apie 50 Lt). \u010cil\u0117s mastu &#8211; tai pigu, nes paprastai biomagnetikai pra\u0161o nuo 15000 iki 40000 pes\u0173.<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"width: 160px;\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2007\/2007_ecuador\/quito\/IMG_8055.JPG\" title=\" \" class=\"shutterset_\"><img src=\"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/photos\/2007\/2007_ecuador\/quito\/cache\/IMG_8055.JPG-nggid042400-ngg0dyn-150x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.JPG\" alt=\"IMG_8055\" title=\"IMG_8055\" \/><\/a>\t\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\"> <\/p><\/div>\n\n<p>Biomagnetik\u0117 rado manyje kelet\u0105 virus\u0173, kuriuos sak\u0117 i\u0161gyd\u017eiusi (<span>nuotraukoje Katja Ekvadore<\/span>). Paprastai po toki\u0173 seans\u0173 artimiausias kelias dienas savijauta gali net pablog\u0117ti, ta\u010diau po to pacientai pasveiksta. Pana\u0161iai nutiko ir man. Nakt\u012f po seanso nugaros skausmai nesuma\u017e\u0117jo. Kitas dienas vis jau\u010diau, kad raumenys darbuojasi. Nugara \u012fsitempusi, \u0161iek tiek jau\u010diausi pavarg\u0119s. Galiausiai pra\u0117jus keletui dien\u0173, dingo ir skausmai, ir nugaroj buv\u0119s spaudimas. Dar kart\u0105 \u012fsitikinome, jog biomagnetizmas vis tik veikia, nepaisant to, jog gydymas atrodo tikra mistika. Sako, \u017emones tokiu b\u016bdu pagydo ir nuo diabeto, ir nuo v\u0117\u017eio, ir net nuo AIDS.<\/p>\n<p>Arika prad\u0117jo pabosti. M\u016bs\u0173 namuke baigin\u0117josi vanduo. Tuo tarpu Katj\u0105 vis dar persekiojo sinusito simptomai. Be to, man jau at\u0117jo laikas \u012ftaisyti plomb\u0105 \u012f dant\u012f, o prie\u0161 savait\u0119 atsirad\u0119s kosulys nenor\u0117jo man\u0119s palikti. Buvo pats laikas va\u017eiuoti i Takn\u0105 (Tacna) &#8211; pirm\u0105 miest\u0105 Peru teritorijoj. \u010cia juk ir daktarai, ir dantistai, ir vaistai, gal\u0173 gale ir pragyvenimas &#8211; viskas daug pigesni nei \u010cil\u0117je. O tai rei\u0161kia &#8211; ma\u017eiau kapitalizmo ir daugiau \u017emogi\u0161kumo. Tre\u010diadien\u012f, baland\u017eio 23-i\u0105, s\u0117dom \u012f kontrabandinink\u0173 piln\u0105 autobus\u0105 (1000 pes\u0173, 6 sol\u0117s, 5 litai) ir po poros valand\u0173 jau buvom Peru. \u010cia gyvenimas atrod\u0117 daug laisvesnis. Pasirodo jau buvom pasiilg\u0119 to nat\u016bralaus chaoso ir normali\u0173 kain\u0173&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Jau jums ra\u0161\u0117m, kad buvom \u012f\u017eeng\u0119 \u012f \u010cil\u0117s \u017eemes, ta\u010diau prie\u0161 de\u0161imt dien\u0173 trumpam sugr\u012f\u017eom \u012f Peru. O buvo taip&#8230; Kai sve\u010diavomes Ikik\u0117je (Iquique, \u010cil\u0117), Katjai bronchito simptomai ka\u017ekod\u0117l nenor\u0117jo dingti. Buvo neai\u0161ku ar tai alergija, ar tai sinusito protr\u016bkis, ar kitas nemalonumas. Negana to, vien\u0105 dien\u0105 man besir\u0105\u017eant, raumuo nugaroje, o gal nervas, \u0161oktel\u0117jo [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[18,17],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-393","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cile","category-peru"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/393","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=393"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/393\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":502,"href":"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/393\/revisions\/502"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=393"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=393"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/followtheroad.com\/lt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=393"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}